DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT – MARTA KAZMIERCZAK

Marta Kazmierczak recently graduated from the University of Edinburgh with a First Class Honours Degree in Fashion Design, specialising in menswear and textiles.

During her time at University she developed a variety of skills, with her key strengths being fabric and material innovation, sketching and illustration, meticulous technical drawing skills, creative and experimental pattern cutting and proficient research abilities. She is also highly interested in the various issues surrounding vegan and environmentally-friendly textiles and fashion. The subject was her main focus of her research-led final dissertation project.

CONCEPT

The #AW18 collection takes inspiration from a variety of references, linking them together in order to tell a unique and distinctive visual story. The foundation of the collection is the exploration of the themes of vision and optics, reality and virtual and manufactured realities, the natural and the supernatural. The overarching mood of the collection stems from the idea of a fictional character, a detective or perhaps a forensic scientist, who embodies the spirit of the clothes. Taking references from the 90s image of an FBI agent, the influenes include “Twin Peaks” and “The X Files”, as well as “The Matrix”. The collection aims to combine together the traditional and the digital, mixing together futuristic and retro-futuristic aesthetics, traditional tailoring and sportswear. Inspired by military uniforms and their futuristic visualisations, spacesuit, diving uniforms, aviation, robotics and protective uniforms, the collection incorporates technology, interesting hardware and unusual finishings and solutions into garments.

Panoptic vision, four-dimensional space and Zbigniew Rybczyński’s film “The Fourth Dimension” influenced the creative approach to pattern cutting. The garments are sculptural yet wearable, designed with a 360° approach in mind. The unusual contrast between traditional tailoring and sportswear contributes to the collection’s distinctive and unique look. Layering creates an effect of the garments building up around the wearer’s body. Wetsuit-like bodysuits serve as a base, with shirts and tailored trousers, coats and jackets layered on top and connected to each other in smart and unusual ways and with great attention to detail.

Interesting colours and textures come together to create a unique look, influenced by graphic design, op art, hypnosis and illusions. The collection combines colours traditionally used in menswear with brighter, more unusual and attention-grabbing tones.

Contemporary menswear silhouettes, original and slightly eccentric aesthetics and futuristic accessories aim to combine art with fashion and question the boundaries of ready-to-wear.

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