PH5 SPRING/SUMMER 2024

Words by Laur Weeks @laur.weeks

Where casual meets cool: PH5 delivers on intentional details, contrasting layerings, breezy knits, and unexpected pairings with a meaningful homage to their Chinese factory at the brand’s first NYFW runway “Factory Life” for Spring/Summer 2024.

OVERVIEW

Emerging powerhouse brand PH5 debuted its first CFDA calendar runway show for the Spring/Summer 2024 season on September 13, 2023 at New York Fashion Week. Set on the open rooftop of the Public Hotel, the show presented by PH5’s leading duo of founder Wei Lin and designer Zoe Champion was intimate with a small and meaningful guest list. The outdoor rooftop location at the end of summer was a perfect staging for the innovative UV-reactive technical fabrics the brand debuted recently, leading back to its own science-focused brand DNA. Brief rain showers cleared up to a warm sunny day and light wind to start the show that felt aligned with the breezy collection and made for good use of front row attendees’ gifted palm fans. Lively muted sounds of a party crowd played over the speakers, and if one listened closely, the words of bubbly conversations laid over appropriately easy wavy beats were almost discernible.

The entire collection met at the intersection of casual and cool, bringing versatility and polish to inherently airy yet intentional design. As is usual for PH5, contrast was king: dressy looks with layered high socks, square shapes paired on top of typically wavy hems, and crisp tailoring with patterned textiles proved that opposites most definitely do attract. This masterful juxtaposition serves as the cornerstone to create the interesting and immediately identifiable style that we’ve come to associate with the brand each season.

We saw more of their uniquely slim plaid pattern imposed on the iconic wavy shift dresses and loose unisex vests, continuing brand signatures from previous seasons. Backs of the garments that were as interesting as the fronts set this collection apart, and made for a fun yet wearable garment from any angle of the runway. Earthy tones matching the designers’ consciousness of nature felt anything but safe or boring – umber basics met lime green accents, pale blues flirted with seafoam tones, and light pinks played with bright kelly green for an inspired high-contrast take on natural palettes. Watery swirled prints on expected knit textiles aligned with PH5’s mission to bring knitwear into any season, visually lightening the fabric for spring styling. When combined with open backs and breezy cool tones in whimsical patterns, the showcase certainly felt suitable for the season while keeping solidly true to brand identity.

As for accessories, eye-catching sculptural bags in an array of colorful leathers and patents with oversized whimsical hardware accompanied models down the runway, alongside cultural Asian statues and ornamental items that spoke to the collection’s theme of a dedicated homage to their knitwear factory in China (which founder Wei Lin’s mother operates in Dongguan.) Footwear styled for the looks matched the ‘cool’ and wearable vibe of the PH5 style, via flat shoes and sandals with layered socks.

NOTEABLE LOOKS & TRENDS

Standout looks this season included skirts paired with long layered vests, acid wash trompe l’oeil pants in colorful new palettes, and open knits in vivid hues that brought a breezy beach atmosphere to the runway. Recurring complementary colors of baby pinks and kelly greens felt traditionally Spring-appropriate. Anticipated branding of wavy details on unisex garments like polo shirts put a wearable, fashionable spin on more traditionally dull garments built for an everyday wardrobe – showing that fashion can be both fun and functional. Unique and identifiable detailing like this can serve as a welcoming approach to high fashion, or a gateway introduction to the brand, for consumers not yet comfortable with more head-turning garments in their daily styles. Popular trending styles we’ve seen from brands like Jacquemus were also here to stay for the new season from PH5. Knit biker shorts and slim strappy-back gowns made an appearance yet again for Spring and served as another accessible approach for those new to the designer.

PH5’s delightful approach to storytelling and more avant-garde art manifested in the collection through numerous ‘dual’ looks that appeared to be simple signature looks in front, but were pinned (as if to a mannequin) in the back with another garment or layer. This disorienting take on deconstructed style felt brilliantly eccentric and was a clear homage to the “Factory Life” theme, which also manifested through prints in multiple looks. One print portion was composed of linguistic characters, whereas another incorporated photographs of the building itself. These details were intended to convey the meaningful beauty within the structure of the designers’ Chinese factory and its workers. The final two looks of the show were a similar nod, and elicited an audible gasp from the crowd upon their appearance. Both looks told a story of laundry day and fashion overconsumption: the designers’ outlook on sustainability was clear as models carried mountains of clothing down the catwalk, composed of so many signature looks we’ve seen emerge from the brand in prior seasons. As a male model turned around holding a massive pile of garments, the audience could see he was barely clad in back – wearing only socks, slides, and a pair of tiny PH5-branded bike shorts reminiscent of boxers worn for a Sunday laundry day run.

Wei Lin and Zoe Champion ultimately presented an engaging collection with a meaningful commentary and homage for the Spring season, clearly aligned with PH5’s established mission and signatures. We look forward to seeing how the brand evolves after this first creative foray into runway at New York Fashion Week, and are already anticipating another sustainability-minded and impactful showcase next season.