IN CONVERSATION WITH GIORGIA CICATELLO

Giorgia Cicatello, a talented set and costume designer for cinema and theatre, has successfully translated her artistic skills into the fashion industry with her eponymous brand. Having studied in high school and travelled between Paris and Berlin, Cicatello honed her craft and became well-versed in the sector before establishing her own brand in late 2018.

What sets Giorgia Cicatello apart is her dedication to working closely with Italian artisans and embracing their expertise. This partnership has not only allowed her to understand the rules of craftsmanship but also empowers her to break and rewrite them, resulting in unique and avant-garde designs. Her collections transcend traditional gender boundaries, presenting a fresh perspective that appeals to diverse audiences. In just a few years, Cicatello has already made her mark on the fashion industry. Her creations have graced major catwalks and adorned international red carpets, earning her recognition and acclaim. This success can be attributed to her fusion of a visionary mindset with an unwavering commitment to maintaining artisanal excellence.  

Beyond her passion for fashion, Cicatello’s curiosity extends to life itself and the compelling stories that lie within each individual. Her belief in self-awareness as the key to freedom and personal growth drives her to continually push boundaries and overcome inner limitations. In essence, Giorgia Cicatello’s brand represents an unfolding, human narrative that continually captivates and inspires.

Overall, Giorgia Cicatello’s journey as a designer and her commitment to craftsmanship and creative storytelling set her apart in the fashion industry. Her brand stands as a testament to her vision, and we eagerly await the next chapter she will pen.

‘‘Clothes tell so sincerely who we are and what we want to be.”

– Giorgia Cicatello

CORE FALL-WINTER 2023/2024

In these extraordinary times, Giorgia Cicatello delves into the harmonious relationship between ethics and couture craftsmanship, presenting a collection that serves as the culmination of her previous works. Known for her ethereal and transcendent creations, Cicatello weaves a narrative through shapes and processes that explore the connection between individuals and their inner selves. This season, the Italian designer challenges established notions of belonging, eradicating the concepts of fashion and gender altogether.

The collection is a democratic tale, devoid of gender norms or societal affiliations, existing as a silent story. Drawing inspiration from contemporary dance and in collaboration with choreographer Mariangela Puddu, Giorgia reveals the essence that resides within all of us – the core. The core, located between the lower portion of the bust and the lower edge of the pelvis, possesses immense functional significance in the realm of movement, serving as the first link in any kinetic chain. Through this exploration, Cicatello encourages us to truly comprehend our authentic selves and embrace our inner core.

The collection comprises individual pieces that may seem disconnected at first glance, deliberately rendered in monochromatic tones to invite deeper observation, stripping away color to unveil concealed details. The invisible splendor of embroidered crystals resonates with the emerged interiority, delicately woven onto the skin as a testament to its uniqueness. The selection of silks, suedes, and organic fabrics accentuates the beauty of diverse skin tones, while glassy organzas and long white capes exude a sense of sacredness, honoring the reverence we should hold for our genuine selves. Giorgia Cicatello’s latest collection is a mesmerizing exploration of the profound connection between ethics and craftsmanship, elevating fashion to a realm beyond gender and societal boundaries. It invites us to delve into our true cores, appreciating and celebrating the diversity that lies within us.

IN CONVERSATION WITH GIORGIA CICATELLO

You have a diverse background in various creative fields such as cinema, theatre, and costume design. How have these experiences shaped your approach to fashion and influenced your design aesthetic?

My past is always present in my every creation. I consider myself fortunate to have chosen not to follow a standard and purely academic path, but to have had the opportunity to experiment and do research in art, because this has given me the opportunity to see fashion as a story and not as a half-end to my own use. My unique pieces are conceived and realised as works of art, where I have the opportunity to experiment and let myself be guided by pure creative sense. Having worked in fields such as cinema, theatre and performative art allows me to space and also use different materials and raw materials and to study the dress while still maintaining functionality and comfort in use.

Your brand has gained recognition for blending multidisciplinary technologies with traditional craftsmanship. Can you explain how you navigate the intersection of these different disciplines in your creative process? How do you ensure that both aspects are seamlessly integrated into your designs?

It is crucial for me that there is always a link between past and future, because what we are able to create today, is only allowed to us thanks to the research and experimentations of the past. If, for example, I want to experiment with 3D printing, I make sure that it is used to improve or make contemporary something that would be lost over time, such as embroidery for example. This allows those who come into contact with my work, to also know practises and tailoring techniques that are almost extinct. However, I do not lose my link with the sustainability of the brand, so I make sure that every process I integrate to the creation uses only processes and raw materials that respect the planet and the humans.

Your designs are often described as avant-garde and transformative. Could you provide examples of the pioneering techniques and luxurious materials you use to create these unique and captivating garments? How do these elements contribute to the overall artistic vision of your brand?

My design is based on research. Whether it’s about studying a cut, a neckline, a processing technique, or simply manipulating the fabric, I usually never work alone, but I get guided by experienced people who can give me creative inputs. They usually never come purely from the fashion industry, for example, in the E-nature collection, it was a biologist expert in nanotechnology who guided me during the research phase. Understanding how a micro-organism works allowed me to process and draw the form then printed with the PLA of related hemp following exactly the path I had seen under the microscope. Every process, whether it is in the use of digital software for design, or that concerns the most contemporary fusion techniques, is then adapted to the material, strictly selected according to very specific criteria: the fibre of each fabric must guarantee durability over time, so I choose only high class materials. I prefer natural fibres especially because they give the skin a feeling of comfort, even when wearing seemingly very uncomfortable clothes.

Your brand challenges traditional notions of handmade craftsmanship. How do you reinvent the craft as an engine of innovation and sustainability while still maintaining a sense of artistry and attention to detail?

Creating a connection between experience and unconsciousness. New minds have a spirit of defiance that belongs to the young generations, where I take that unconsciousness that allows me to dare where those who have gained experience would not go. But without the skilful hands of those who for years have worked on the techniques of the past I would not be able to get to that advantage I am looking for. After all, this was also my path, a constant learning from those who have lived times that I have only read in the books, but also a constant research together with those who are writing the new pages.

Sustainability is a key aspect of your brand’s philosophy. How do you incorporate sustainable practices into your design and production processes? Why is it important for you as a designer to prioritize sustainability in today’s fashion industry?

In 2024 sustainability should be a concept that is now taken for granted. For my brand, it is a path, made of natural materials, end-of-series fabrics or recovered from laboratories now in disuse, but above all ethical in the work. Care and respect must be sought on the planet, which starts from the design and arrives at the sale, trying to pollute as little as possible, but my choice also goes towards a slow fashion, which does not follow the race to the trend, which does not imply an exploitation of the worker, but which respects every individual who contributes to the realisation of the work, who will enter the world to draw one style and not to follow another.

Your interdisciplinary approach to art and fashion is evident in your designs. Can you discuss any collaborations or inspirations from the art world that have influenced your collections? How do these collaborations enhance the storytelling aspect of your brand?

My background and past certainly binds me to aspects of more traditional art, exploring the worlds of classical and Renaissance art, but with the advent of technology I have adapted the whole creative process to digital art. This allows me to experiment and optimise during all phases, from the design to the development of the prototype, thanks to the help of the most advanced 3D modelling programs. I also often like to establish collaborations with artists for my collections, which range in numerous fields, from dance and music to performative art.

Gender boundaries seem to be transcended in your designs. Can you elaborate on the concept of vision having a home across genders in your brand? How do you incorporate 3D technology and rediscovered embroidery techniques to create ethereal and forward-looking garments that appeal to both men and women?

My concept of gender goes beyond gender itself, for me every individual both male and female carries both genders within him. If you think about it, each of us has peculiarities and characteristics more closely related to the female or male archetype. Those who choose a boss Giorgia Cicatello, do so because he is fully aware of himself and his person, has achieved a freedom that elevates him from the concept or sense of belonging linked to a single gender. How do I report all this in the design? The clothes are studied on an androgynous build, which fuses characters and needs typical of masculine and female physicality. Mine was born as a woman brand, but I have always left freedom even for men to feel free to wear my own creation.

Balancing avant-garde design with wearability can be a delicate task. How do you strike a balance between pushing boundaries and creating pieces that are also practical and wearable in everyday life? Can you discuss some favorite pieces from your collections that embody the avant-garde wonder of your brand?

Surely what I want to say about this is that we have to find the right compromise between ecstasy of sight and comfort. In my collections I try to maintain the same sense of wonder that each unique piece has always given to my audience. For example, I am looking for a detail or a particularity in the structure, without exceeding it, but making even the simplest of garments unique. This can be translated into asymmetries of the necklines, in volume games with fabrics or simply in the use of cutting-edge materials in embroidery. For example, I made some pieces from my last collection incorporating the technique of origami created with folded and starched fabric, and then applied to the jackets. The fit and comfort of the garment has remained unchanged, but the craftsmanship of the technique makes every single piece unique.

Your Italian background and passion for Made in Italy craftsmanship shine through in your designs. How do your roots influence your creative process and the aesthetics of your brand? What are your thoughts on the importance of preserving and promoting traditional craftsmanship in today’s fast-paced fashion industry?

The beauty and mastery of the art and craft techniques of the past make me proud to come from a culturally rich country like Italy. Ignorance almost terrifies me, becauseI see how limiting and superficial life without culture is. So I try in everything I do to pass on some of my luggage and that of the people I meet. This binds me to Italy certainly but not only, I feel strongly influenced by the culture in general. Today we have the opportunity to get to know and grow by getting in touch with cultures even very far from ours, and my curiosity always pushes me to do research. My latest collection, the one that will be released in this 2024 for example, explores the ancient technique of Japanese Kintsugi, while I have in the past worked with French embroidery or Italian high tailoring techniques.

As an established designer who has challenged norms and pushed boundaries, what advice would you give to aspiring designers who wish to make their mark in the fashion industry with their unique vision and creativity? How can young designers navigate the ever-evolving landscape of the fashion world while staying true to their artistic integrity?

What I feel like saying to a young designer is not to be afraid to be himself . Today, we have before us a market strongly saturated with brands, aspiring designers or young people who improvise themselves as such. Study, do research, experiment, find your key, your vision, your story. Being unique, knowing how to distinguish yourself, but making sense of the things you do. Because sometimes you overdo it for fear of having done something too simple or vice versa. Stop, question yourself, look for a coherence that you tell yourself or the message you want to leave, but respect and never lose your personality because that is the key to distinguishing yourself.

A letter to your future self.

Dear Giorgia, I hope you have not stopped loving what you do, you are still travelling and living every single day of this splendid journey as if it were a great achievement. With the humility and strength that distinguishes us and with the same tenacity with which I overcome every step of this life. Smile at mistakes, don’t stop learning from them and continue living your life by doing what makes you happy.For me today it’s called sharing and freedom, but now it’s up to you to write the key words of your existence.

– Giorgia Cicatello

PREVIEW SPRING/SUMMER 2024

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