The 12th edition of Feeric Fashion Week turned Sibiu again into the world’s capital of creative fashion. Between 17 and 21 July, designers from all corners of the world presented their new collections in unconventional spaces in the city and in Sibiu County, Transylvania, Romania.
In 2018, the IED started a series of extensive events on sustainability.
”We started in 2018 with a series of happenings focused on sustainability, together with IED students and special guests who include Livia Firth – the creator and Creative Director of Eco-Age, a consultancy and marketing brand that supports growth of businesses that generate, implement and communicate sustainability at work – and Tiziano Guardini, the designer who won the GCC Award for Best Emerging Designer, set up by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in collaboration with Eco-Age. The topic of sustainable fashion is not just a fad, but a urgent issue. They inspired IED students, guiding them in the development of their capsule collections: the project was launched in January 2018, at the same time as the last edition of Pitti Immagine, with an ‘inspirational brief’ and a week of meetings dedicated to sustainable fashion in collaboration with also Italian companies chosen for their environmentally-friendly production processes. These included Ecoalf, Thermore, Isko, Texmoda, Lampa, Orange Fiber, Essent’ial, Showmates/Idee Partners, Arti 21, Vegea, Nemanti, Fulgar, Santoni, Spazio 2.0 and Ecopell 2000. The same brands provided the fabrics, raw materials and expertise required for the creation of the prototypes. ”
Parcae is a capsule collection that draws its inspiration from the relationship between nature and technology and from the contemplation of how these two worlds coexist in harmony. As in Ancient Greece aesthetical elements, balance and neatness spreads in 5 looks of exquisite garments with volumes that conquer the space around the body, using drapery, deep creases and a geometric study of weights and volumes.
Oddly Beautiful. In a devastating depiction of a post – modern world destroyed by pollution, eighteen – year – old Jonah has a heartbreaking beauty, a pure spirit in a poisoned body. Through the collection his story unfolds. The clothes he wears, made from sustainable fabrics and perfectly cut, turn out to be contaminated with toxic substances, just like the environment he lives in, which come together in a kaleidoscopic collision of shades and colours, wondrous yet with something of the feral about them. The silhouette is clearly defined, wrapped in fitted trousers and structured jackets.
Puru Puru is an onomatopoeic expression in Japanese used to evoke gelatinous substances of biological word of jellyfish and transitional life forms such as cocoons as they change to caterpillars and thence to butterflies. The 5 looks bring out the versatility of the fabric and the potential of warp and weft. Deconstructed denim and expansive, flowing volumes are accompanied by exquisite needlework, inlays and filaments. Many of the fabrics and yarns used are composed of fibers coming from recovery processes. The organic denim produced by Candiani is treated using Kitotex® Veg Technology, a biodegradable substance extracted from fungi and algae that removes all damaging chemicals from the production process and reduces water and energy consumption, with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) certification. The five looks use soft fabrics, creases and pleats to explore the volumes of men’s clothing. The fabrics move, creating ripples and clear lines. Various textures and weights complete the collection, combining woollen cloth and a light, almost transparent jersey with faux leather and light pleated organza, fabrics produced by among others Texmoda, and Miroglio committed to Detox guideline to eliminate hazardous chemical toxic substances. Through an expert choice of neutral colours and refined needlework, the Human Trace team describes human beauty, ripples and the textures of our skin, while stitching and tatting leave digital stamps on the fabric.
Divisi. We are constantly divided: divided by time, by school, in sport, by roads and by work. Stemming from the concept that a uniform epitomises division, conferring identity but at the same time de-personalising, this collection revisits the stylistic features of these garments through a series of looks with unexpected volumes, looking to the future, versatility and constant transformation. The garments are made from structured fabrics, with sinuous cuts and sudden inserts. Uniform is turned into embroidery and inlay, but also becomes the very substance of the garment. Jackets, trousers and overalls, like comfortable body armor, offer an element of surprise and create new uses through cuts, long zips and openings. Among the fabrics chosen, the wool produced by Emmetex with recycled material is GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified. GRS is an international, voluntary, full product standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of recycled content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices and chemical restrictions.
PHOTO CREDITS: ANCIRA ADEON