EMERGING TALENTS MILAN FALL-WINTER 2021/2022

Emerging Talents Milan​ once more reveals outstanding designers from all over the world creating another fascinating celebration at the world fashion capital. The team came back with a runway show and presentation on February 23, 24, and 25 again at Palazzo Visconti in Milan for Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Season.

No doubt, the previous year caused tremendous changes in the fashion industry. The future of the fashion show and fashion weeks is fluid and rapidly transforming.

We believe the catwalk is a personal date, where designers can open up their hearts. It’s a very special moment for everyone in the audience, that cannot be recreated in virtual reality. Emerging Talents Milan​ embraces the changes, but believes in traditions. We continue to meet each of you personally in Palazzo Visconti at our shows. It is fundamental for talented designers to experience those emotions. We can deliver a different story with live shows than we can with a picture.’’

Fashion Shows: Lokomotiva, Marc Cain, Menniti, Murrii Quu Couture, OTKUTYR Fashion House, Perfect Population by KL Allen

Presentation Brands: OTKUTYR Fashion House, Sanda Design, Soave, VIAGOLAQUATTRO, VOR Makeup

The event was organized strictly following the anti-COVID19 measures.

EMERGING TALENTS MILAN FW21/22 SHOW

Marc Cain FW21/22

Natural nonchalance is above all else in the Marc Cain Collections for Fall/Winter 2021. Under the motto “How wonderful…” the connection to nature is not only reflected but also celebrated in the collection. The current zeitgeist is expressed in the form of fabrics, cuts and colour combinations.

Soft, sensual neutral shades such as off-white, pannacotta and sandy beige unite in monochrome outfits. Nougat, butter and cream also create a delicate composition of shades. Deep night blue combines with chestnut and mahogany to form a harmonious overall concept.Two nuances in one style are new and modernise the themes. In addition to soft tones, there are also offensive statements of colour: strong red and bright pink enter into an expressive liaison. Fabrics have a language of their own. The message is clear: high quality and nonchalance are the order of the day this winter. Cuddly, yet coarse knits and elaborate jacquards underline Marc Cain’s knitting expertise. Flowing, shiny qualities alongside matt, soft surfaces – an encounter that creates tension in the looks. Faux fur is excellent as it is presented in a mix of materials including black patent details. Bouclé knitwear breaks out of old patterns and presents itself unexpectedly on trendy maxi skirts and cool shirts. New is a shiny crash fabric on dresses and shirts. Optimistic and grounded – both reflect the current attitude towards life as well as the attitude in the collection.

Feminine, floral prints transport this confidence in a light. hearted way. Animal prints are essential – the predator is shown as a tame cat this season, an abstract leopard or even as a wild lion. Salt and pepper prints are translated on lightly padded nylons for new trench coats. Patchwork flowers create depth in three-dimensional surfaces. Casual, not careless. Together, hybrid pieces create a look that plays with lengths and layers. Jackets are used as an alternative to blazers and combined with soft-falling midi dresses – outfits that are uncomplicated, natural, and yet seductive. The silhouettes range from oversized, for example in short jackets with overlapping shoulders, or deliberately figure-hugging in feminine dresses. Body hugging cardigans and all-enveloping coats satisfy the desire for security and safety. Double-faced coats made of wool/silk are versatile and are perfect as an elegant companion through the season. Uniform borrowings such as rubberized seal buttons, navy shades and blazer jackets interpret originally tough utility themes in a feminine style. Fringes are an important new key detail in ponchos, cardigans or skirts. Rolled cowboy boots lend the looks coolness. Peep-toe bootees are celebrating a fashion comeback this Fall/Winter. Bags with chain details come as practical companions, always perfectly matched to the respective style.

Murrii Quu Couture FW21/22

Murrii Quu Couture blends Hollywood glamour reminiscent of the 30s with references to the ancient lands of her people. The Cassandra Ruth collection, named after Cheryl’s mother and grandmother is a selection of 10 creations. Each piece is sculptured from pre-existing outfits, the result stunningly elegant items, no two gowns are ever the same. Cheryl reclaims existing outfits to be deconstructed and refashioned into and a bespoke work or art. This process may include up to five different garments all sourced from recycle shops. Slow fashion takes on a new meaning as beautiful fabrics live on in a new form.

Sustainability is a way of life for Cheryl who says, “It’s how I live, we call it “Caring for Country…” the term used by Aboriginal people means, caring for the land and is an intrinsic part of her identity. In Cheryl’s case working with dead stock, that pollute the environment, she refers to as her raw materials, sourced from pre-existing garments reverses the environmental impact and informs each design. Every element of the gown has a historical story, of having once been and every story is unique and classically timeless. Designer ​Cheryl Creed is a proud Aboriginal woman, a direct descendant of the Gunggari, Pitta-Pitta, Bindal and Quandamooka people from Queensland, Australia.

OTKUTYR FW21/22

OTKUTYR’s FW21/22 tells the story of our current dystopian zeitgeist. It warps the space between two parallel time periods, referencing the pandemics of the 19th and 21st centuries. The confusion, uncertainty, and unwavering resilience of these periods inspire the aesthetics of the collection. At its essence, AW21/22 is a nightmare of a dream that overlaps two worlds, existing within a multiverse.

The color palette of OTKUTYR’s latest collection adheres to our multiverse’s turbulence, featuring soft pastel ombrés and pale pink lace — but also the total opposite with bright, solid colors. Embracing a sense of uncertainty and resilience, the collection is inspired by masculinity but rendered in femininity. The fashion house turns traditional Saudi celebratory menswear on its head, transforming the winter Furwah into a reversible overcoat for women, evocative of the versatility of our current moment. Other androgynous silhouettes borrow the loose, dramatic sleeves and structured collars from the shirts of 19th century gentlemen.

Yet the FW21/22 collection is infused with unmistakable femininity, as seen in the voluminous hips of its silhouettes, subtle embroidery, and the dreaminess of fabrics such as lamé, dantelle, tulle, taffeta, nylon, and scrunched organza. The collection encourages women to take up space the way men traditionally have, adding volume in garment shoulders and creating oversized silhouettes. The result twists the concept of the uncertain to create a collection that emanates strength and adaptability. OTKUTYR is sponsored by RARE water, which produces premium natural spring and mineral water in the Republic of Armenia and is known to not need any treatment, with the water being bottled directly from the source.

LOKOMOTIVA FW21/22

For the new fall winter collection Lokomotiva stays on its tracks and suggests yet another bold collection consisting of timeless pieces for individuals with character. Inspiration for this collection designer finds partly within herself as all of the pieces that are carefully handmade are an honest vision and statement of the designer’s own personal aesthetics and intimate influences. The collection is also influenced by designer’s nostalgia towards certain past times where a subtle magic of 70’s and 80’s flare channels through some pieces. 50’s silhouette also appears on occasion, where pieces get that charming easy feminine touch.

As often designer states – her brand and all of the collections are in a way modulated by superimposing diversities. Something rough, big in volume, strong, bold, symmetric and in clean lines is often in contrast to something light, subtle, asymmetric, gentle and feminine. It is a collection that easily dresses up bold and fearless individuals, but still does not lack femininity and s​ophistication. Throughout her work, Lana explores volume in all its forms, often focusing on researching it even in the smallest scale, for example in certain details or finishes. In this collection exploring continues as some of the pieces are overly exaggerated in volume (for example tulle dresses), some pieces got amplified in detail (shoulders, sleeves, belts…), but they are still perfectly balanced as a whole.

Garments are additionally enriched by adding pieces of handmade jewellery and small leather goods (belts and small leather bags) on top of them. The almost abstract jewellery for the clothing is all handmade in metal, precious stones, beads and pearls in the collaboration with a Croatian artist Maja Miletic. As an architect turned fashion designer Lana also pays a lot of attention towards tailoring as the perfect fit is of great importance for her and adds specific details to Lokomotiva’s bespoke suits. Part of the colour palette is almost typical for autumnal season – black, dark blue, shades of brown, but is also in contrast to the freshness of ivory and pink shades. A touch of glamour is added with sequins and lame metallics which subtly appear every now and then throughout the collection. Some of the materials used in the collection are pure wool, wool gabardine, sequins, lame, cotton, satin, taffeta and organza. As in her previous collections, the designer continues to play with the technique of pleating adding a touch of luxury to the material finishes.

The collection is a diverse symphony of certain garments that could easily be evening wear, daily wear or business wear, depending on the styling we opt for, in contrast to glam and glitter of the lame and sequins or pomp of the 50m tulle dress. Mixing a bit of sportswear (bomber jackets, jeans) in the glam department gives the whole collection quite a fresh touch, whereas perfectly tailored suits and coats provide a fantastic, elegant and sophisticated everyday attire. Through this collection Lokomotiva wants to bring optimism, happiness and belief that the good times are here to return. Collection provides us ​quintessential ‘uniforms’ for all of the specific occasions that lay in front of us embracing us in its strength, luxury and uniqueness.

MENNITI FW21/22

Alba is the first collection of MENNITI.

Alba is the synergy between the Southern Italy roots and the world. It is the exaltation of the contrast between antique and modern. Alba is a concentrate of pure Italian DNA enclosed in the stylistic contours in every dress created, in every fabric and color used, and in every emotion aroused. The fabrics are fluid and light that create comfort for the body. The silk prints are modern re-definition of antiquity in the bold colors of red, black and gold that define the entire collection in which one dress is a declared homage to an absolute master of fashion, Gianni Versace.

Alba is art showcased through the collaboration with Esteban Mantilla, a Colombian artist that has created for MENNITI a piece of art numbered and signed. Alba is sustainability also through the partnership with non-profit organization One Tree Planted, for each clothing piece sold, we will plant a tree in the Colombian Amazon rainforest.

PERFECT POPULATION BY KL ALLEN FW21/22

After years of successful seasons in New York Fashion Week, Perfect Population is making their mark in Emerging Talents- Milan Fashion Week for the first time. In their very first season, they will collaborate with Princess Mauve Cosmetics as the official make-up partner. On the 23rd of February, the fashion label will be presenting their new collection “PERFECTVILLE 2100” at the Palazzo Visconti during the Emerging Talents Show. Founder and Head Designer KL Allen states, “I am very excited about my debut with Emerging Talents during Milan Fashion Week as this has always been a dream of mine. My brand Perfect Population stands for Independence, Freedom of Expression and Fashion Forward. Class and Elegance infused with an out of the box twist.

As an African American Fashion Designer, I want Perfect Population to become a Fashion House known around the world.” Perfect Population will be opening its first flagship store & Showroom in the US, in Doraville, Georgia on April 24th, 2021. Perfect Population caters to men and women and has been worn by many notable celebrities such as American idol Winner Fantasia Barrino, Cynthia Bailey and Kenya more from Real Housewives of Atlanta, Gospel Award Winning Group Mary Mary and Grammy Award winning Singer Mya Harrison, just to name a few. Perfect Population will be establishing itself in Milan for the very first time and presents it’s latest collection in this fashion capital in front of an international audience.

The secrets of its success: Perfect Population always strives to design outside of the box by designing unique, classic, elegant and edgy garments that stand out in any audience. PERFECTVILLE 2100 Collection forms the identity of the label’s rise in Fashion. PERFECTILLVE 2100 Collection by Perfect Population is inspired by the Future with elements of the 50’s. What would the world be like in 2100? Fashion is always evolving, and so is life. The collection represents a perfect world filled with chic and glamorous people who are dressed to perfection no matter the background or gender. The collection is bold, revolutionary and thought provoking. Perfect Population is happy to have Princess Mauve Cosmetics as their sponsor and partnership with their debut. They are collaborating on a joint collection for their upcoming Fashion Show Launch in Atlanta in May.

EMERGING TALENTS MILAN FW21/22 PRESENTATION

Brands: OTKUTYR Fashion House, Sanda Design, Soave, VIAGOLAQUATTRO, VOR Makeup 

Photo: http://wongwannawat.com

SANDA DESIGN

Scouted by Josip Grabovac for the Emerging Talents Milan, the Sanda Design collection speaks of the unbreakable bond between us and nature. Sanda, the designer and the founder of the Sanda Design brand, wanted to remind us with her collection, she cleverly named Gaia, of the sacred bond we forge with nature the moment we are born. Each of the pieces that were presented at Palazzo Visconti, tell the story of our alienation and attempt to remind us that we cannot see ourselves as the separate entities, but rather as a part of Gaia, the ancestral mother of all life. With her collection, Sanda wanted to give an ode to strong women who walk through life with fierce determination. Although inspired by women and nature, her jewellery is also devoted to all those who set out to change the course, create something that adds value and send a powerful message.

OTKUTYR Fashion House

OTKUTYR’s FW21/22 tells the story of our current dystopian zeitgeist. It warps the space between two parallel time periods, referencing the pandemics of the 19th and 21st centuries. The confusion, uncertainty, and unwavering resilience of these periods inspire the aesthetics of the collection. At its essence, AW21/22 is a nightmare of a dream that overlaps two worlds, existing within a multiverse.

The color palette of OTKUTYR’s latest collection adheres to our multiverse’s turbulence, featuring soft pastel ombrés and pale pink lace — but also the total opposite with bright, solid colors. Embracing a sense of uncertainty and resilience, the collection is inspired by masculinity but rendered in femininity. The fashion house turns traditional Saudi celebratory menswear on its head, transforming the winter Furwah into a reversible overcoat for women, evocative of the versatility of our current moment. Other androgynous silhouettes borrow the loose, dramatic sleeves and structured collars from the shirts of 19th century gentlemen. Yet the FW21/22 collection is infused with unmistakable femininity, as seen in the voluminous hips of its silhouettes, subtle embroidery, and the dreaminess of fabrics such as lamé, dantelle, tulle, taffeta, nylon, and scrunched organza. The collection encourages women to take up space the way men traditionally have, adding volume in garment shoulders and creating oversized silhouettes. The result twists the concept of the uncertain to create a collection that emanates strength and adaptability.

OTKUTYR is sponsored by RARE water, which produces premium natural spring and mineral water in the Republic of Armenia and is known to not need any treatment, with the water being bottled directly from the source.

SOAVE Cashmere

In Italian Soave means tender, delicate, peaceful. We chose this name for cashmere sweaters created in Italy with love to nature, admiration for nonchalant elegance and unpretentious charm of Milan Bohemia. It is the love manifested in fabric, in color and in design. Jersey with a philosophy — for women, who are in harmony with the world, who choose exceptional quality, comfort, freedom of movement and actions. The soft elegance, which was mentioned by Coco Chanel and Sophia Loren. The secret is simplicity and composure. Soave sweaters are manufactured by a small textiles factory in the central part of Italy, which has been creating premium products for eminent fashion companies specializing in cashmere for more than 30 years. Skillful hands of the very same Italian craftswomen create jerseys from unique 100% baby cashmere yarn for us.

Soave woman – Light-hearted, accomplished, enticing. Is she Italian? At least, in her heart. Gorgeous without gold pendants, sophisticated forms or twisting hands. It is in composure, confidence and energy she generously shares with the world. She is beautiful, but not as a fresco or a figurine is. Her beauty is wind in nonchalant slightly tumbled locks, wrinkles like beams of sunlight around her smiling eyes. It is in the harmony and intrinsic connection to nature. She knows what she wants from life and from her clothes. She basks in luxury without throwing splashes on anyone. It is not the “dolce vita” from pop songs. It is real, sweet, but not syrupy. It is not for effect, but for love.


VOR Make-Up by Valeria Orlando

VOR Make-Up ​is a beauty brand proudly Made in Italy dedicated to the creation of make-up products that takes shape in 2013, taking the utmost care so that the different formulations contain the best ingredients in order to “gently caress” the skin. Initially born with an exclusive focus on beauty / make-up artist professionals called VOR PRO program, in 2017 VOR Academy came to life to give all aspiring make-up artists the opportunity to study with a precise ethics, with the support of teachers. carefully selected and using only VOR Make-up products. Today VOR Academy can boost an ever-increasing number of students who have chosen to be part of the VOR Beauty Expert team.

With the arrival of the pandemic in March 2020, VOR Academy and its collaborators, as well as all the VOR Academies, had to suspend their activities and remain on stand-by (this probably until October 2021) until they resume work at full power. This challenge did not scare us, on the contrary, we will emerge strengthened because we have worked with greater commitment so much so that we have created a new VOR segment:

“​VOR for Beauty Stores + Companies​”

The potential of the make-up line has prompted us to look carefully at a new category of users, however demanding and increasingly well informed about cosmetics, we want the VOR Make-Up product not to be exclusive access by professionals in the sector but that anyone can have it thanks to the many perfumeries, beauty centers, hairdressers and various beauty shops with direct sales to the customer.

Italian makeup artist Valeria Orlando​ has been called one of the most creative make-up artists in fashion and art industry. She rose to prominence in the early 1990s and has since collaborated with numerous important brands and photographers, including Mario Testino, Steven Klein, Gian Paolo Barbieri, Eolo Perfido, Andrea Massari, Cosimo Buccolieri, Nikolay Biryukov, Stefania Paparelli, Andeer Brogard, Susi Belianska, Michele De Andreis, Benedict Renc, Francesco Chiappetta, Fulvio Maiani, Federico Leone, Fabrizio Scarpa, Enrico Caputo, Elio Nogueira, Christian Tagliavini and has created beauty looks for the fashion catwalks of Versace, Fendi and various alternative and emerging platforms related to Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week, with focus on emerging talents.

Head Fashion Stylist Russ Ev
Head of Makeup Valeria Orlando using VOR Makeup, B-Selfie, Gli Elementi

Head of Hair Styling Antonio Iengo
Location Palazzo Visconti Milano
Lighting and Set Family Studio