Acclaimed bridal designer Wiederhoeft introduced us to the new realm of Wiederhoeft casualwear this season with a spirited retelling of the classical Greek tale of Orpheus and Eurydice for their Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. Titled simply “Eurydice,” the collection included multiple manifestations of the bridal gowns we’ve come to expect from the brand, in addition to high-brow ready-to-wear dressing with a twist via heavy embellishments, dramatic silhouettes, and unexpected fabric play. Keeping with the brand’s existing identity, the new line explored interesting gathered fabrics, new ways of draped shapes, and minimalism at a glance that in actuality proved to be exquisitely detailed.
The overarching dark delicacy in each garment balanced beautifully with Wiederhoeft’s telling of an alternate tale in which Eurydice chooses to remain in the underworld with Hades, rather than following hero Orpheus back to the world of the living. Bringing us into this twisted fantasy, the standout looks of the collection featured the designer’s signature beading and totality of embellishment in a captivating lingerie set crystallized onto a tailored shift dress and a breathtaking monochromatic piece featuring crystalline teardrops beading down a pale minidress paired with matching sheer leggings and arm sleeves. The looks were pure art, not just attire.
Pearlescent tones played a major role in the collection as a whole, harkening back to Wiederhoeft’s bridal establishment as a designer and the dreamy undertones of Eurydice’s story. Signature corsetry brought the looks firmly into distinct Wiederhoeft territory, along with other key notes from the brand. One favourite silky eggshell garment featured an elegant cowl neck draping with puffed tulle mini skirting that gathered like a cloud around one model’s hips — very in line with some previous collection aspects we’ve seen from the designer, and recalling fog of the underworld crossings for our characters in the Greek myth.
The Autumn/Winter 2023 collection felt purposeful and darkly whimsical, while serving as a truly novel retelling of a classic heartrending tale with a bit of a knife edge behind it. With a freshly twisted post-gender retelling of Eurydice’s story, Wiederhoeft once again lives up to its s elf-proclaimed identity as a “design house obsessed with theatre, dance, and the magic of live performance” — bringing to life a fantastical story before our eyes with a couture-level execution of opulence, elegance, and bold creative direction from brilliant designer Jackson Wiederhoeft.
Words by @laur.weeks
Photography credits: Victoria Bruno, https://www.victoriabrunostudios.com