Name of the Spring/Summer 2023 collection ‘Apeiro-Thanoto’ is a word that Yubeier Zheng, the designer, created by combining two words ‘Apeirophobia’ and ‘ Thanatophobia’, (Apeirophobia is the excessive fear of the infinite and the innumerable, and instead thanatofobia translates as ‘the fear of death’.
So inspired by this complex ideology of “that the supreme values lose all value”, “all this is meaningless”, linking the feeling that nihilism gives, with the sense of negativity and despair, with deep thoughts and emotions that people have under the influence of the pandemic. The designer was inspired by the avant-apocalypse trend, combining a post-war Japanese dance movement for the liberation of the human body and emotions called Ankoku Butoh which means “dance of total darkness” photographed by Joel-Peter Witkin, Yubeier Zheng convinced to achieve a punk style with an iota of ‘scissor romanticism’ using crooked silhouettes, fabrics and manipulations with destroyed and stained effects and textures to express a quite dark gothic and convey the fear and frustrations that all of humanity has in this circumstance today.
Model:Chen Li @chen_liz
Photography + Art Direction: Guanbo Wang @daniel.w.g.b
Make-up + hair: Yubeier Zheng @_cificaisalien
Designer + Styling: Yubeier Zheng @_cificaisalien
IN CONVERSATION WITH YUBEIER ZHENG
When did you first realise you wanted to pursue a career as a designer?
Ever since I was a 5-year-old kid playing with Barbies, in my head I always wanted to make clothes for them. Then when I was 14 I went to art school to pursue a creative path and eventually at 17 found that traditional art was not a suitable path for me, I wanted to do something more unconventional like fashion.
How important is your cultural background for your brand?
I would say that in a way it’s very important, but my design is to break the boundaries that my culture has set for me. I’m Chinese, and in my culture, there’s an emphasis on limitations. People talk about being less expressive and quiet, which to me means hiding a part of yourself to be ‘socially acceptable’, and in my design I always do the opposite, which is to be rebellious and very expressive, to embrace who you are.
Who have been your biggest mentors in this industry and what is the best advice they have ever given you?
I think every professors I’ve met from school so far have all equally brought great importance to my career path,but most of all my professor Paulo Melim Anderson and Natalia Dubuis, and the best advice would be ‘It is your collection, so you have the right to justify your concept. Do not be misunderstood.’
What is your biggest fear when starting your own brand?
I haven’t really launched my brand yet, but my biggest fear would be not achieving the perfection I’ve always expected or not being able to express the message I want to express.
Who would you most like to see wearing your garments? Name two icons you admire or you would like to collaborate.
Damiano David from Måneskin. His genderlessness and rebelliousness is very appealing to me. Mrs.Vivienne Westwood and Mr. Rick Owens.
A letter to your future self. What would you write?
A: There may always be people who misunderstand you and try to ruin you because you’re very different, but don’t ever let them get you down and never give up on being your authentic self.
33 MAGAZINE 